King of the District: Part 2
Governor Hein’s clove cigarette fizzes hypnotically, dipped in the incense, and from the utter darkness the ancestral Moro talks the Tobelo language in an old,...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 23, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
Governor Hein’s clove cigarette fizzes hypnotically, dipped in the incense, and from the utter darkness the ancestral Moro talks the Tobelo language in an old,...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 21, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
Governor Hein’s people pick us up early. 9.30pm, not 10. It’s a big, slick, maroon people-carrier, a Toyota, I think, not quite as pristine as...
In the dirt yard, by the communal sleeping platform her family have built outside their wooden home, Biasri, eighteen years old and five months gone,...
by Theodora · Published October 7, 2010 · Last modified January 26, 2015
It happened during the second gold rush they had, here in Eastern Halmahera, in Indonesia’s Wild East, back in the 90s. When parties of twenty...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 4, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
We pick up Ibilihi from his home on a narrow strand of yellow beach, backed by jungle sprouting out of coral cliffs, where he lives...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 3, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
Lima has just discovered clothes. Three months ago, in fact. Compared to the itchy bark loincloths he used to wear, they’re remarkably comfortable. An excellent...
by Theodora · Published October 1, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
In the village, they’re still a little mystified as to what happened to Jeff. He was a missionary, you see. At least, he said he...
Tomorrow we embark for Pulau Halmahera, one of Indonesia’s Spice Islands, where we will travel back in time. Our aim? To experience the nomadic hunter-gatherer...