King of the District: Part 2
Governor Hein’s clove cigarette fizzes hypnotically, dipped in the incense, and from the utter darkness the ancestral Moro talks the Tobelo language in an old,...
Tagged: ternate
When Travel Becomes Time Travel
Tomorrow we embark for Pulau Halmahera, one of Indonesia’s Spice Islands, where we will travel back in time. Our aim? To experience the nomadic hunter-gatherer...
Harvest Time in the Spice Islands
Ever wondered where cloves come from? Well. They come from many places now. But in the beginning, they came only from the Moluccas, the mysterious...