The Last Soldier
In parts of Halmahera, they remember Teruo Nakamura as the good Japanese. You know. The one who didn’t rape and kill and pillage. Didn’t enslave...
In parts of Halmahera, they remember Teruo Nakamura as the good Japanese. You know. The one who didn’t rape and kill and pillage. Didn’t enslave...
We saw some amazing things from the roof of the slow boat the other day. Flying fish. Not just the big, silvery ones, threading running...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 21, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
Governor Hein’s people pick us up early. 9.30pm, not 10. It’s a big, slick, maroon people-carrier, a Toyota, I think, not quite as pristine as...
Indonesia is not, let us say, short on dive sites. And, when you can snorkel with giant manta rays, turtles and jellyfish defanged by evolution...
Ever heard of Morotai? Nope? You’re not alone. But, when it comes to desert island bliss, this smallish island off northern Halmahera in Indonesia’s Spice...
by Theodora · Published October 7, 2010 · Last modified January 26, 2015
It happened during the second gold rush they had, here in Eastern Halmahera, in Indonesia’s Wild East, back in the 90s. When parties of twenty...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 4, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
We pick up Ibilihi from his home on a narrow strand of yellow beach, backed by jungle sprouting out of coral cliffs, where he lives...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 3, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
Lima has just discovered clothes. Three months ago, in fact. Compared to the itchy bark loincloths he used to wear, they’re remarkably comfortable. An excellent...
Tomorrow we embark for Pulau Halmahera, one of Indonesia’s Spice Islands, where we will travel back in time. Our aim? To experience the nomadic hunter-gatherer...
Ever wondered where cloves come from? Well. They come from many places now. But in the beginning, they came only from the Moluccas, the mysterious...