Hearts and Minds
We meet Cam and The Big O on a WWII amphibious landing craft in a coconut grove outside the island’s capital. They are surrounded by...
We meet Cam and The Big O on a WWII amphibious landing craft in a coconut grove outside the island’s capital. They are surrounded by...
In parts of Halmahera, they remember Teruo Nakamura as the good Japanese. You know. The one who didn’t rape and kill and pillage. Didn’t enslave...
We saw some amazing things from the roof of the slow boat the other day. Flying fish. Not just the big, silvery ones, threading running...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 23, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
Governor Hein’s clove cigarette fizzes hypnotically, dipped in the incense, and from the utter darkness the ancestral Moro talks the Tobelo language in an old,...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 21, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
Governor Hein’s people pick us up early. 9.30pm, not 10. It’s a big, slick, maroon people-carrier, a Toyota, I think, not quite as pristine as...
Indonesia is not, let us say, short on dive sites. And, when you can snorkel with giant manta rays, turtles and jellyfish defanged by evolution...
Ever heard of Morotai? Nope? You’re not alone. But, when it comes to desert island bliss, this smallish island off northern Halmahera in Indonesia’s Spice...
by Theodora · Published October 7, 2010 · Last modified January 26, 2015
It happened during the second gold rush they had, here in Eastern Halmahera, in Indonesia’s Wild East, back in the 90s. When parties of twenty...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 4, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
We pick up Ibilihi from his home on a narrow strand of yellow beach, backed by jungle sprouting out of coral cliffs, where he lives...
Adventures / Indonesia / People
by Theodora · Published October 3, 2010 · Last modified February 9, 2013
Lima has just discovered clothes. Three months ago, in fact. Compared to the itchy bark loincloths he used to wear, they’re remarkably comfortable. An excellent...