Our First Encounter with Healthcare in Mongolia
The jeep rolls up the hill, and the doctor emerges, with a metal box of tricks. She’s a slight, friendly woman in her 30s: I...
The jeep rolls up the hill, and the doctor emerges, with a metal box of tricks. She’s a slight, friendly woman in her 30s: I...
We know it’s going to be a brutal ride out from the reindeer people – six full days, seven hours a day, riding fast as...
In news from the department of the bleeding obvious, drinking horse dung juice, even mixed with vodka, has not improved Maahar’s tummy. He heads back...
The ger we are visiting belongs to Baatar’s sister, and a second sister is visiting. As is a young man so drunk his eyes are...
I am more than a little discombobulated when a bunch of other tourists show up at the best ger ever, and make camp. Despite the...
This is the view from the best ger ever, a herd of horses passing by, untrimmed manes trailing in the breeze. It is, in fact,...
The mountains that divide Khovsgol Nuur from the Darkhad Depression aren’t terribly mountainous. They’re misty, sure, and a little forbidding, but rather rounded compared to...
There’s a pleasant rhythm to a long journey, and within an hour or so we’re in it: spotting the different types of wildflowers, keeping an...
“When I was 17,” Ganbaa explains, “I was a wrestler. And a group of us went to Russia, wrestling. There were no tall buildings in...
The mountains outside Songpan, where northern China gives way to old Tibet, are some of the most beautiful we’ve visited. Alpine meadows give onto vistas...