Our Last Hurrah
All of a sudden, as we load up the bike and bump out of the coffee plantation and over the waterfall bridge, it feels as...
Category: Adventures
On the Up in Flores
It is a bright, sunny day and a beautiful ride. I’m starting to feel that the jinx that has befouled our overland mission from Bali...
Sharks in the Land of the Dragons
After a challenging couple of weeks, to be lolling ‘twixt sun and shade on the roof of a dive boat, flying fish flitting across the...
We Learn to Surf…
We have come to Kuta, in the south of Lombok, to learn to surf. And the beach, Selong Belanak, 20km or so west of Kuta,...
Our Next Intrepid Adventure: To Papua on a Motorbike
We have been intending to get to Papua for roughly seven years, ever since Z and I first started talking about travelling together, around the...
A Little Adrenaline
From terrifying, world class surf breaks at Ulu Watu to the beginner-friendly swells on Kuta Beach, from one of the world’s easiest and most satisfying...
King of the District: Part 2
Governor Hein’s clove cigarette fizzes hypnotically, dipped in the incense, and from the utter darkness the ancestral Moro talks the Tobelo language in an old,...
The King of the District: Part 1
Governor Hein’s people pick us up early. 9.30pm, not 10. It’s a big, slick, maroon people-carrier, a Toyota, I think, not quite as pristine as...
In Which We Dive an Undersea Volcano
Indonesia is not, let us say, short on dive sites. And, when you can snorkel with giant manta rays, turtles and jellyfish defanged by evolution...
A Country Wedding
In the dirt yard, by the communal sleeping platform her family have built outside their wooden home, Biasri, eighteen years old and five months gone,...