Author: Theodora

Doctor Fish

Downtown Siem Reap, your starter for ten for the glories of the Angkor era, is tacky as hell. Yet, while a banner boasting “the most...

Rules and Regulations

David is building an airfield. He has five planes waiting to go, two in Thailand, two en route, one awaiting release in Sihanoukville. So he...

Our Maths Hell

So, four Mondays into our trip, and the home-schooling thing has hit a major speedbump. It’s the long division that’s killing both of us. It’s...

Kampot Pepper

Now, there are roughly as many “world’s finest peppercorns” in Asia as there are “world’s best mangos”– think chillis in Texas or cheeses in Europe....

Mr. Toilet

The Phnom Penh riverside has been beautified of late. Glamorous pagoda-styled buildings in hues of red and yellow send serpentine corner eaves skywards like dragon’s...

Virachey National Park

Virachey National Park sprawls across northeastern Cambodia, right up to the borders with Vietnam and Laos. Within it is a fraction of the Ho Chi...

Bus Journey from Hell #1

We’ve been relatively lucky with buses, so far, if you take squat toilets and a fine coating of red dust, AKA a Ratanakiri suntan, as...

View from cell at S-21, Phnom Penh.

S-21: Genocide for Beginners

“Kneel down, mum,” Z says. “Close your eyes.” He fumbles with my hair. We are in the courtyard of Tuol Sleng prison, Phnom Penh, Cambodia,...

Poachers and Gamekeepers

“You want beer party now?” As we wandered the haunted hotel by torchlight, Saa’s invitation kind of broke the mood. The Bokor Hill Station, a...