In Which We Slay the Hydra
We have won the long division war! Once Z started humming the theme tune to 2001 at volume, I knew we were going to be...
Author: Theodora
Ladybird Hats
In South-East Asia, we’ve been spending a lot of time on the back of bikes. Call them motos, xe om or motorbike taxis, they’re generally...
The Unwilling Soldier
The Cu Chi tunnels, twenty miles or so outside Saigon, make the trenches of Flanders look like R&R in Bangkok. More than 200 kilometres of...
Cambodian Food
There is an old Khmer saying which runs roughly as follows: “Eat anything that has four legs except a table, eat anything that flies except...
A Tryst Arranged
One quiet evening, Francois’ brother played Mendelssohn on the balcony of our Phnom Penh guesthouse, and he played it well. Francois is a writer, two...
I Heart Cambodia – Part 3
Angkor Wat. The icon of a nation. One of the wonders of the world. Tens of kilometres of bas-relief. Acres of lawns. Sacred pools which...
Best Train Journey Ever? #1: The Bamboo Train
Z will contentedly nap on motorbikes, ride the tailgate on pickups, sit on the edge of a boat and stand up in the back of...
Dolphins on the Mekong
I was eighteen when I read about the pink freshwater dolphins on the Amazon. I’ve dreamed of seeing them ever since, and Z and I...
I Heart Cambodia – Part 2
It’s still uncomfortably early when we debike and hit some blessed calm at Kbal Spean, the River of a Thousand Lingas. The mile-long path to...
I Heart Cambodia – Part 1
Z and I are sitting in pitch blackness on the laterite stairs overlooking the lake of Banteay Kdei, Cambodia, between a sculpted Khmer lion and...