Scenes from a Forgotten Conflict
An adult woman weeps as she recalls a childhood spent in prison. The time the soldiers forced her to torture her mother. And the times...
Author: Theodora
Seven Travel Lessons Learnt From Bitter Experience
1: There is a Time and a Place for Hallucinogens That time and place is not a Moroccan beach patrolled by men in hooded cloaks...
The Sunday Six: Ways To Offend The Locals in Asia
1: Point Your Feet At Someone In Thailand, Laos, and much of mainland South-East Asia, feet are considered “low” and dirty. So you need to...
Yes, You Can Lock Your Keys In A Motorbike
When I was in my (very) early teens, my mother ran out of petrol while taking me home from school. She set off, on foot,...
A Very Young Country: Timor Leste
Timor smells different from Flores. It has that red dust scent with hints of gum, a dryness in the air, a scent more Australian than...
How to Cross from Indonesia to Timor Leste Overland
There’s not a lot of information on how to cross from Indonesia to Timor Leste overland. So here’s how to cross the Indonesia – East...
The Sunday Six: Things You Might Not Know About Bali
1: Everyone Has The Same Names If there’s one thing you’ll notice on Bali holidays, it’s that everyone seems to have the same names: Nyoman,...
First Impressions…
It’s a big bike. A very big bike. A tall, chunky trail bike, so high my feet would barely touch the ground, its heavy-duty engine...
The Painted Lakes
We climbed through clouds and rain to reach the crater lakes at Kelimutu, Flores. Sacred to the local people, who believe that souls return to...
The Emptiest Landscapes on Earth
Looking for solitude? Drama? Isolation? Some of the world’s wildest places are more accessible than ever before. From deserts to steppe to swathes of frozen...