One of the most bizarre elements of life on Bali is how very concentrated tourism is. Chinese tour groups seem to cluster in the Bukit Peninsula, on a regimented diet of scenic vistas; Bintang-branded bogans flock to the strip-mall delights of Kuta; Europeans and Americans clog Ubud; while all stripes of traveller now pile into Seminyak and Canggu.

But there are other places you can head to on your next Bali holidays – and all are, currently, much less subscribed than the ’Bud and the West Coast.

Sidemen

Beyond Ubud, the artist Walter Spies made his home in the rice fields around Sidemen, and, with the volcano framed by blue skies and stepped green terraces, the beauty of the area still stands today. It’s a sleepy place, with little to do but walk in the rice fields or the forest or the valleys, watch Mount Agung for action, or join a silversmithing, weaving or cooking class. And for that very reason it feels like the Bali time forgot.
We like to stay at: Kubu Tani, a triad of petite villas with opulent views across the greenery. If you prefer a hotel (and a pool), Teras Bali makes an excellent choice.

Nusa Penida

I’ve sung the praises of this still relatively unspoiled island here before, and whether your tastes run to swimming with mantas, spectacular, cliff-framed beaches or cave temples, you’re unlikely to be disappointed once you get to Penida – although it’s worth noticing the Instagram crowd are all over some of the island’s signature attractions. When it comes to where to stay, Ped offers a great dive centre (Blue Corner), a sustainable café-store (The Gallery), excellent grilled fish at De-Ku Bistro (order in advance), surprisingly decent cocktails at Penida Colada, a solid Padang joint for budget travellers, and the island’s most spiritually powerful temple.
We like to stay at: Ring Sameton While Penida’s hotel offer has yet to catch up with its delights, this is a solid choice with spacious, classic rooms, a big pool, and friendly staff.

Bingin Beach

Set in the general strip of the Bukit Peninsula that the world knows as Uluwatu for its surf breaks and cliff-top temple, Bingin Beach has a character that’s all its own. Surfers flock here for two great (and challenging!) waves: the aptly named Impossibles and Bingin. But if the swell’s not too big, swimmers can thrive in the waters (with a wary eye for potential rips), rock pools beckon little kids, and the beachfront warungs make for leisured lounging. Come sunset, the barbecues open up: grilled fish on the sands makes an excellent end to the day, while the catch seems fresh and varied compared to what’s on offer at Jimbaran.
We like to stay at: Deeksha Warung. A ramshackle, cool, three-bedroom, eight-person beach house, this sits up 50-odd steps from the beach with gorgeous views through the bougainvillea: if monkey invasions aren’t your thing, there’s oodles of accommodation up top (see Travelfish’s overview).

Bedugul

Not only does it get cold enough up in Bali’s central highlands for strawberries – and rabbits! – to flourish, it can actually get chilly enough come morning for places to need fires at some times of year. The star attraction in Bedugul is the enormous botanic garden, home to Bali Treetop Adventure Park, a zipline forest adventure that’s a must for anyone with kids, but there’s a beautiful lakeside temple, too, while the views just don’t get old.
We like to stay at: Strawberry Hill With tubs in the standalone bungalows and strawberries growing in the garden, it’s by far the nicest place to stay in Bedugul.

Lipah

The main attraction of the Amed-Tulamben strip is, of course, the wreck of the USAT Liberty, and it’s well worth staying locally just to dive it (EuroDive are an excellent outfit and can get you there before the site gets too ridiculously crowded). But you don’t have to scuba, however, to appreciate the turtles, lively coral and smaller wrecks, to stroll among the jukung fishing boats and to feast on fresh fish, and Lipah is the strip in which to do it. Stop by for fish soup at Warung Ketut while you’re there.
We like to stay at: Coral View Villas. One of the first properties into Lipah, and still one of the best, bungalows feature enormous indoor-outdoor bathrooms and the beachfront grounds are to die for. Families will find their two-storey sea-view affairs excellent value.

East Bali National Park

I am going to write about the Menjangan in some detail but, for the meantime, let me just say that it’s well worth heading up to East Bali National Park. You can’t stay on Menjangan Island, the white sand island with the extra-special snorkelling, but you can stay just inside the park boundaries at a cluster of resorts. None are cheap: but you’ll be rewarded with deer (and monkeys) strolling right in front of you, unusually dry jungle, and delights such as dining among the mangroves.
We like to stay at: The Menjangan. Between the tower with its sunset views to Java and beyond, breakfast in the mangroves, and the double-decker safari carts that escort you around the property, this really is super-special. If funds permit, a splurge on the 3-bedroom Residence, with its private pool, is a must for families.