If you’re coming to Bali, a night or two in Ubud, the island’s arts, culture, food and spirituality capital, is pretty much a must. So here are my recommendations for 48 hours in Ubud. I’ve included alternatives for various options, which means there’s more than 48 hours worth of things to do in Ubud here – it’s a town where many happily spend weeks – and also that you can pick and choose. Because, when it comes to itineraries, choice is pretty key, IMO.

I recommend places to stay in Ubud in this blog post. The cheaper spots will enable you to do almost everything here on foot. If you’re not comfortable hiring a scooter (expect to pay around 50,000 IDR for one day’s hire), it’s hard to escape the town’s transport touts: 500,000 IDR is a fair fee for a car and driver for an 8-hour day unless you’re planning on covering long distances. You can also hire pushbikes, which are fun if you’re staying in the countryside, but no fun at all if you’re navigating the hills and traffic of central Ubud.

48 Hours in Ubud: Day 1

Breakfast at Tutmak

Dump your bags at wherever you’re staying, then head to Tutmak, for Eggs Benedict, smooth lattes, fresh juices and a skim of the local papers. Just off the football field in the heart of Ubud, Tutmak is a splendid place to start the day. (For more Ubud food recommendations, click here.)

Learn a Craft

Ubud is Bali’s arts and cultural capital, and an excellent place to learn a craft. Pondok Pekak, hidden at the back of the football field, a few doors down from Tutmak, runs classes in everything from silver-smithing to woodcarving – kids will love the fruit-carving class. Lingsir Paperie, next door to Tutmak, runs paper-making classes, while Bumbu Bali has a lovely Balinese food class that begins with a trip to the market. (There are a welter of arts classes in Ubud – click here for more options, from batik to yoga.)

Lunch at Locavore

Unless you’re hyper-organised, you won’t get a table for the dégustation-only dinner service at this world class restaurant – even for lunch, you’ll need to book well ahead. Dishes look like works of art; they have their own organic veggie garden; and almost every single ingredient is locally sourced from Bali and surrounds. If you are hyper-organised, book for dinner, and go to town – the cocktails are outstanding. Turn right at Tutmak and head down Dewi Sri: Locavore is on the left-hand side just after the bottom of the hill. (Got kids? Unless they’re over 12 and adventurous eaters, try Taco Casa for gorgeous fresh tacos or Warung Schnitzel for sausages instead.)

Tour a Temple

Monkey Forest Temple is a tourist mecca – and there are good reasons for that. The combination of monkeys, dramatic jungled gorge, iconic bridges and mossy stone statues make for a mesmerising Indiana Jones experience, right in the heart of town. Please don’t feed the monkeys – tourist routinely lose chunks of hair, while bites can carry rabies. And be sure to walk all the way through to the woodland and the deer park.

Looking for something a little bit less obvious? Or already visited Monkey Forest? Drive north to Tampak Siring, stop to admire the spring-fed water temple – and have a splash in the sex-segregated pools if you’d like. A little further out, the dramatic, 11th-century rock-cut shrines of Gunung Kawi sit in a stunning gorge around a pretty river and, despite the gauntlet of sellers on the way down, are still rarely visited.

Coffee Break

Indonesian coffee doesn’t have the profile it deserves, worldwide, but artisan coffee joint Seniman Coffee has selections from across the archipelago, including the legendary luwak. Head to their studio across the road to sample cold-brewed coffees and chocolates – including fizzy, foaming brews — and watch the grinders in action.

Catch a Dance

Balinese dance is famous, but the choice of dance is very individual. I defy anyone not to enjoy the kecak, where a massed male choir of local villagers tell a pantomime-worthy tale from the Ramayana featuring demon kings, seductive golden deer, monkeys, a noble hero and a dumbass heroine – this is often accompanied by fire-walking, which is gobsmacking but culturally inauthentic and might distress some.

Dance connoisseurs will probably favour the fine art and delicate fingers of more classical Balinese dance, such as the legong: if that’s on at Pura Suraswati, consider eating at Lotus, where you can watch the dance while you dine. You will undoubtedly be besieged by ticket vendors as you walk through Ubud – if you’d like to make an informed decision, stop by the tourist office at the top of Monkey Forest Road for a full dance schedule.

Ribs and Martinis

Nuri’s succulent ribs and old-school martinis are a Bali expat staple. Accept one of the myriad offers of transport, and drive to Naughty Nuri’s, up in Campuhan, for a bone dry martini, or two, and a stack of ribs from the barbecue. Or be smart, opt for beers with the ribs, and save up some…

Room 4 Dessert

Part dessert bar, part cocktail bar, this is the Bali offering from the chef’s favourite pastry chef, Will Goldfarb, right next door to Nuri’s. Try the sharing dégustation menu for the full experience of quirky textures and surprising flavours. On a budget? Stay in town, and eat at Pica Kitchen, which majors on Peruvian cuisine, on Dewi Sita, just before Locavore.

48 Hours in Ubud: Day 2

Sucking Pig Breakfast

Babi guling – or Balinese sucking pig – is a Bali must-try, and a traditional morning dish. If you’re genuinely energetic, head out to Ubud Market in the wee hours to try the authentic deal – or try Ibu Oka’s famous babi guling. Her Mas outlet, no. 2, is most authentic, but the one by the Royal Palace on Jalan Raya Ubud is reachable on foot. Or, of course, sleep in and have breakfast at your hotel.

Get Active

All that food provides the perfect excuse to head out into the landscapes around Ubud. If you have kids, or an inner child, white water rafting on the Agung River is a fun way to explore the river gorge – and best done over the rainy season (roughly, November to March), when the water is higher and faster. I thoroughly recommend the Bali Bird Walk, not only for bird-watching, but as an introduction to Balinese culture: tours run daily from Campuhan and take you out through the ricefields.

Like doing things independently? Head down to the Campuhan Bridge and strike out into the countryside, or pick one of the myriad narrow gangs that lead off every major road and wander at will. One of the great joys of walking in Ubud is that you only have to head 50 metres off the main drag and you’re in the countryside.

Lunch at Alchemy

Ubud is a mecca for all sorts of food faddism, notably raw food. What’s amazing about Alchemy, a laidback, sunny cafe in the heart of pretty Penestenan, is that the all-raw, all-vegan cuisine actually works. Mix up a salad from the salad bar, and follow with delicious raw “cheesecake” or raw chocolate peanut butter cups. Juices are great here, and there are swings for kiddies or your inner child.

Check Some Art

You’d be remiss to visit Ubud, let alone spend 48 hours there, without exploring one of the town’s art galleries, though which is a matter of personal taste. With kids, I’d recommend theAntonio Blanco museum. The art is abysmal, but the architecture’s spectacular, the garden is wonderful for scampering in, and there’s an aviary of tropical birds. Alternatively, take your pick from ARMA or Puri Lukisan for art: Puri Lukisan’s Balinese collection is probably the best, but ARMA has some interesting works from European artists living in Bali.

Gelato Time!

If you’ve followed all these recommendations, you’ve seriously earned a gelato. Gelato Secrets, at the top end of Monkey Forest Road, has stunning, funky-looking Italian style gelatos, but Gaya Gelato has the edge. The Gaya Gelato mother-ship, Gaya Fusion, is a long way out of town among the upscale hotels, but you can sample their gorgeous organic ice creams at Vanilla Pod at the top of Monkey Forest Road: the lime is to die for.

Whew! Spa!

Many folk spend weeks in Ubud pursuing yoga and healing of various kinds – Yoga Barn is a mecca for Eat, Pray Lovers, while, if you love kale and wheatgrass, a visit to one of the various Living Food Labs is a must (if you don’t, you’ll find most juice options here revolting).

Balinese massage is rightly famous, and Balinese masseurs command high prices the world over. So, whether you really only need your nails done, or you’re a hardcore spa junkie, do make the time for a spa treatment here – you can spend as little as 50,000 IDR for a one-hour massage, or several hundred dollars.

On a budget? Nani Spa, on Gang Mandya, towards the top of Monkey Forest Road, offers great value massages in simple rooms. Looking for something a bit more special? Spa Bali, near the Dirty Duck in Pengosekan, combines contemporary, upscale design with authentic Balinese techniques. At the top end of the range, try Fivelements for eco-conscious treatments in an organic, natural environment.

Dinner at Mozaic

Another world class dégustation-only restaurant, run by Chris Salans, who trained with Thomas Keller, Mozaic offers fascinating Balinese fusion cuisine in leafy Campuhan. The garden is stunning, and insanely romantic, and dishes are beautifully presented, while servers helpfully explain the Balinese flavours in each one. Not everything you try here will be a smash hit – though most of it will – but every dish will intrigue. (Got young kids? Head to Rouge for sushi, cocktails, and a garden they can scamper in. Or get a sitter.)

And Don’t Miss….

Ceremonies are part of life in Bali – and the new moon and full moon are the best time to see them. Hotels – not to mention touts – will know when and where cremations are happening, and a full-scale Balinese Hindu cremation is not to be missed.

Where to Stay in Ubud

If you’re spending 48 hours in Ubud, you’ll need a decent place to stay. There’s accommodation at almost every price point, from insanely luxurious pads scattered along the Ayung River gorge north of town, through to simple but cute homestays. Here’s a few suggestions; you might also want to see my 2017 post on where to stay in Ubud.

Budget Places to Stay in Ubud

If you’re spending more than 48 hours in Ubud, and on an ultra-budget, your best bet is to nego with street touts for simple homestay rooms further out of town on a weekly basis – or, if you’re not happy riding a scooter, nego with the homestays on and around Gang Anila at the bottom of Hanoman Street. Note that many Ubud homestays will discount for longer stays.

Tu Eka

Cheap, cheerful and central, this Hanoman Street cheapie can be good value at $10 a night on Agoda. Fan-cooled rooms have simple bathrooms, but design and feel remains very Balinese.
Check for discount rates on Agoda.

Artini 1

These pretty bungalows are authentically Balinese, and the Hanoman Street location is central. Between the tinkling fountain and the family going about their business, it feels as though you’re staying in an authentic Balinese compound – and you can use the pool at Artini 2, down the road. The back bungalow is the best.
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Check for discount rates on Agoda.

Taman Indrakila

The simple bathrooms let the show down slightly, but the location of these classic Balinese bungalows cannot be beat: terraced into the side of a gorge, with a large, brilliant blue pool apparently suspended above the river below. On a clear day, the highest bungalows have views across to Mount Batur and Mount Agung in the distance. The adjoining Elephant Cafe has food and drink with similarly staggering views.
Check for discount rates on Agoda.

Mid-Range Places to Stay in Ubud

There are plenty of good value mid-range options in Ubud – although be aware that prices rise in the Christmas and summer high seasons. These three are all central, with pools.

Artini 2

Another outpost from the Artini empire, with pretty, stylish rooms set around a substantial pool in the ricefields. Mossy statues, traditional bale and plenty of teak provide a Balinese resort feel. Rack rates are high, but last-minute bookings can yield outstanding value, and both Indonesian and Western fare is done well.
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Check for discount rates on Agoda.

Ubud Lestari

Down a narrow gang at the top end of Monkey Forest, an island of tranquility in the heart of the action, this little place has just six rooms, three of which have ricefield views. All the rooms are spacious with clean, modern design – and space for extra beds – but the two suites beside the small pool in the ricefields are excellent value. Even if they’re showing as unavailable on Agoda, it’s worth picking up the phone to make a booking.
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Check for discount rates on Agoda.

Sri Bungalows

Next door to Ubud Lestari, this is a sprawling affair with a large pool and pretty gardens, while the deluxe rooms look out over a pretty expanse of ricefield and a small stream. The “deluxe” rooms are the ones to go for: they’re larger, more modern and have ricefield views, and they’re in small units rather than large blocks. Suite and family suite rates are highly negotiable.
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Check for discount rates on Agoda.

High-end Places to Stay in Ubud

Much of the top-end accommodation in Ubud is a few minutes’ drive from town, benefiting from rural tranquility plus dramatic gorge and river views, competitively landscaped pools and indulgent spas. If you have money to indulge, you get a lot of bang for your buck here.

Hanging Gardens

Both the individual mini-villas and the pool – allegedly the world’s best swimming pool – overhang the dramatic Ayung River gorge, with views across to a pretty temple, and ordinary village life on offer just a little way up the road. All villas have river views, terraces and private, heated infinity pools, plus outdoor shower and hot tub, while a creaky funicular lift ferries guests up and down the gorge: the river makes a natural accompaniment to spa treatments, and it’s far enough north to escape noise from passing white water rafters. There are regular shuttles into town.
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Check for discount rates on Agoda.

Bambu Indah

John Hardy, the jeweller-turned-hotelier and founder of Green School, set up Bambu Indah as an eco-luxury boutique hotel – and it’s a glorious mix of refurbished Javanese houses and crazy bamboo architecture, set on a little back street just south of the Four Seasons. Rooms vary from mini-houses perfect for the solo traveller to towering three-storey edifices on stilts. There’s a natural swimming pool, organic permaculture gardens and a vertigo-inducing wooden terrace with views down to the Ayung River: brave the steps for a splash in the river proper.
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Check for discount rates on Agoda.

COMO Shambhala Estate

An absolutely stunning high-end spa resort, and the flagship of the COMO spa group, the COMO Shambhala estate offers Ubudian activities from yoga to ayurveda and cleanses, along with contemporary spa treatments and fitness programmes that make the most of the environment, whether hiking, climbing or biking. Suites and villas nestle amid gloriously junglified landscape and manicured gardens with spring-fed pools in a quiet spot along the Ayung River: sign up for 3-21 day wellness programmes or opt for a daily rate.
Visit website
Check for discount rates on Agoda.

Image credits: 10-02-14 Monkey Forest Road 26 by Farley Roland Endeman, Artini Statue 2 by Rebecca Marshall, both on Flickr’s Creative Commons.